As Michel Roux identifies in his new series, Service (which begins at 8pm tonight on BBC Two), the British have a problem with being served. Though the quality of restaurant cooking has improved no end over the past 20 years, the standards of front-of-house remain dreadful. Compared to France, Italy or even – the horror – America, in Britain waiters often will be ill-informed, incompetent and, most frequently of all, simply rude. There is a reluctance on the part of British staff to admit that they are serving, rather than simply passers-by doing the restaurateur, and by extension you the customer, some kind of unpleasant favour.